For many people visiting Japan, seeing asageiko—a sumo stable’s morning training—is high on the list. Watching a tournament from the stands is one thing, but being right there in the room, hearing the impact and feeling the intensity up close, is something else entirely.

Traditionally, these sessions were only open to official supporters of a stable, but in recent years more stablemasters have started allowing limited visitor access. It’s a rare chance to glimpse the daily discipline and routine that sumo wrestlers live by…

The neighbourhood of Ryogoku has a lot more to offer than just sumo stables—here’s how to make the best of your day after an early morning heya tour and feel like a local.